Edgar, his wife Maritza, and their kids Esmerelda, and Edward in Altamira. The trip up itself was beautiful, though long – 5km outside of (mostly up) town. Looking around, I realized just what a good name Altamira (high view) was for the barrio, especially from Edgar and Maritza’s land. I somehow didn’t think to bring my camera, so you have to picture it until I can return to take some pictures (the picture shown is where I went, as seen from central Bijagua). When the clouds permit, you can see both volcano ranges, and waterfalls flowing off of Miravalles. Though the clouds only permitted me to see one of the many waterfalls, it was absolutely gorgeous. I could sit there all day and stare at it.
But staring wasn’t the only thing the day brought. We had a delicious lunch, made almost exclusively from the produce they grow on their land. I learned a little more about their home during the meal conversations. They first bought the land completely undeveloped. After clearing some land, laying down the concrete for their floor, putting up two walls, and putting up a roof, they moved in to finish it. They put in everything from scratch, including the electricity and water. I really love the idea of being able to choose what you want the view from your window to be. Their home is so amazingly theirs, with all the wood, concrete, electricity, and water put in by them.
Then after lunch, it was time for an adventure. After years of not doing it, and not doing it all that well when I did, I got to ride a horse. It is a good thing that Edward was the guide, otherwise I think this adventure would have had a disastrous outcome. We went on a 30 minute ride with lots of green nature to look at. When we came to a little stream, the horse crossed it with little problem, but then there was a hill where walking alone, I would have had to choose my steps carefully. Now imagine you’re a horse. At one point I remember thinking what an oddly sprawled out position the horse was in and wondering if I could jump off before falling along with the horse into the stream. But somehow, the horse avoided disaster and made it up the hill. Of course Edward didn’t seem to give this all a second thought. After a short trail, we made our way through fences and through muddy non-trail on foot (not so gracefully on my part) to the river. It was definitely pretty, but after a quick break, we headed back. This time, when we got to the hill leading down to the stream, I decided to dismount the horse and take it on my own two feet. I just imagined me and the horse crashing down, my leg getting crushed, putting me on the next plane home to the US, ending my Costa Rican adventure. Even though it most likely would have been fine, as I watched the horse basically jump down the hill, I didn’t feel so ridiculous for worrying with my limited equestrian skills.
By the time we finally got back, I felt really sorry for both the horse and Edward who had done all of the work, neither of which probably would have made the trip if it were up to them. But both of them were very good sports and I was appreciative of the adventure they made possible for me. I didn’t dare mention how after such a short ride, my rear already could feel it. It was a great time.
After a delicious cafecito, Esmerelda took me on a tour of their finca. After just over a year, they have their land producing just about everything they need – cows (milk, cheese – sometime spicy, yogurt), pigs, beans, tomatoes, aracache, corn, platano, banana, cilantro, and lots more. It was impressive walking all their land and all their agriculture, thinking about how only Edgar and Edward care for all of it, and they feed themselves almost entirely from this land.
After my time there, I fell in love with it. It definitely is a harder life, but I would argue it is also more beautiful – the view and the quality.
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